1 - Stop the cracks – Can you do an exterior?  Sure!  Can you do a shower?  Sure!  But you gotta stop the cracks.  So you have to know what you are doing.  Or hire someone that does.  And a very important point to bear in mind – lime does not crack by itself.  But it cannot bridge cracks. It adheres to whatever substrate it attaches to.  So when the substrate cracks the lime plaster cracks with it.  And never promise a crack free finish because if you do not actually do the substrate construction and preparation how can you guarantee the thin veneer of decorative plaster we apply will hold?  This often falls outside of our area of expertise and responsibility.

That being said, EIFS mesh and primer systems usually work pretty darn well, in my experience.

MESH AND BASECOAT

2 – Penny wise pound foolish  (AKA prep with the good stuff, you’re worth it!) – So you gotta fill a wall that has orange peel texture because you want to run a nice shiny plaster over it.  So you get out the joint compound because it’s cheap.  You skim.  Then you sand.  Then you prime.  Twice.  Then you can apply your lime plaster.  Hey but wait a minute, why didn’t you just skim with our Marmorino Classic and then do your finish right over it?  Because it’s so damn expensive you say?  But think about it -  if you skim with the good stuff you’ll already have your first coat of lime plaster on.  You’ll have the proper suction and you can do your final coats the next day.  The money you spend on materials (joint compound vs lime plaster) should be more than offset by the money you save on labor, no?

3 – Scrape don’t sand – Got some excess gunk on the walls before you start?  Or did you get some trowel lines from your first coat?  Before you throw up the giant cloud of dust with that sandpaper try breaking out a putty knife and scraping.  Less work, less dust, more better.

4 – Taping – it’s not paint – Yes it’s not paint so don’t tape right up to inside edge of where your wall meets your baseboard or crown molding or whatever you are protecting.  Otherwise you’ll bury your tape underneath your plaster and it will chip or crumble off when you remove your tape.  Allow for the thickness of the plaster material you will be using and tape away from the wall by 1/16″ or more depending on what material you are using.

NOT LIKE THIS

LIKE THIS

5 – Do not assume the people doing your prep are going to do it properly.  Unless they work for you. And then only if you know what you’re doing.  Which is debatable.

Here’s some advice on how to take your distressed finishes from the sample board to the wall:

We went through a number of samples to find just the right color and texture.  Below is a sample wall I did just to make sure the owners were completely comfortable with the finish before we got started.

The clients asked me to come up with something that would work well in their elegant Mediterranean home. It was easy to see how using a richer color for the interior walls would help accent the substantial crown moldings, baseboards, and casings and give the home more richness and depth. The owners commented that once the walls started getting plastered the paint job on the walls began to look like primer – as if the house had not been completely finished until we showed up.

My good friend Bill Kaiser, owner of Elite Plaster in Bend, Oregon, and his brother David came up to help out with the project.  Both guys, although relatively young, have a great deal of expertise in Venetian plaster application, as well as extensive exterior stucco knowledge.  Bill’s done numerous exterior applications with Intonachino in central Oregon over the past few years.

We ran our material as a modified wet-on-wet application.  First coat was applied and allowed to go to set – as soon as we were sure there were no soft spots on the first coat we went right back in with the finish coat, waited for that to firm up, and then came back with a clean trowel to press and smooth the finish.

This technique saves some time and materials as compared to a traditional application in which one allows the first coat to go completely dry and come back next day.  Another advantage of going wet-on-wet is that the residual moisture in the first coat gives the second coat more open time, eliminating concerns about cold joints and lap marks even over large walls.  I wouldn’t recommend the same application on an exterior – you’re much better off doing a full first coat and letting it dry completely for exteriors.

We still have a week’s worth of work doing sealer and finishing columns and a couple of accent areas next week, but most of the wall surfaces are complete.  Those exterior stucco guys move fast!  Here’s a before of the hallway:

And after:

I’ll post more finished shots when we get ‘er all done.

]]> http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/tips-tricks/venetian-plaster-installation-intonachino-x-fine-interior/feed/ 7 http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/tips-tricks/venetian-plastering-tip-how-to-tint-your-wax-to-soften-contrast/ http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/tips-tricks/venetian-plastering-tip-how-to-tint-your-wax-to-soften-contrast/#comments Wed, 06 May 2009 14:17:16 +0000 Aaron Cohen http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/?p=470

This is a really helpful little trick for calming down your Venetian Plaster finishes, especially the more saturated colors.  Pay careful attention, though, about not overtinting your wax. Be conservative and always test a small area first to be sure.  You have to wait until it dries back to really know what you’re going to get.

We’ll post more short subject tips in the future so stay tuned.

1- Study actual photos of crumbling plaster exteriors and interiors. Note the size and scale of the different layers, note the shapes and direction. I generally work with about an 80% vertical and 20% horizontal direction, very little or no diagonal direction.

2- The pattern on a sample board must be expanded to the size and scale of the walls. A sample board may be viewed as a miniature version of the wall to be blown up accordingly.

3- Move your body in a large scale. That is, be expansive, move your arms accordingly – don’t work with small, tight motions from the wrist or elbow. Instead work from the shoulder. Stay loose.

4- Create pattern over multiple layers, not just on your final layer. This will force a greater degree of randomness in your overall pattern. Here’s an example:

On this exterior project the client really wanted to see dark brown openings through a Terra Cotta finish. This created a finish with a high degree of contrast so we had to be particularly careful about not allowing the house to have a contrived pattern when completed. We needed to do the finish in two coats since it was a large exterior surface – approximately 20,000 square feet. Rather than cover the entire first coat with the dark brown we chose to cover only about 15-20%.

This “under-pattern” was designed to help the stucco installers find a more realistic shape and scale on their second pass of material. Also, note how the dark brown generally originates from the top of the wall or the sides. This is often what you will see on an actual stuccoed surface where the first coats of plaster are falling away from the surface. Kind of looked like a giant cow for a while and the country club’s community board got a little nervous, but fortunately our clients had faith in me.
This photos shows the work in progress on the 2nd layer: The dark brown is revealed in small, linear shapes beneath the 2nd terra cotta stucco layer. By following the pattern initiated in the first layer, we had a much easier time avoiding the contrived, obvious, unrealistic pattern I was concerned about.

And here is a detail of the finished exterior surface.

Final tip: PRACTICE!! On a 4×8 sheet of drywall, or your mom’s house. You’ll get the hang of it. Just don’t try to figure it out on a multi million dollar job site if you can help it. Unless you have nerves of steel. We don’t.
]]> http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/tips-tricks/exterior-distressed-venetian-plaster/feed/ 6 http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/tips-tricks/lime-plaster-clean-up-tips/ http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/tips-tricks/lime-plaster-clean-up-tips/#comments Thu, 26 Mar 2009 15:51:26 +0000 Aaron Cohen http://www.stuccoitalianoinc.com/?p=373 Lime Plaster Clean-up Tips:

Marmorino all over my Chanel suit: We’ve found that, when using a natural lime based plaster such as Marmorino Carrara, if you wash your clothes the day of or day after getting plaster on them they will wash right off, unlike latex paint. In a pinch you could probably throw them in a bucket of Downey.

Why stay clean: 10 years ago when I went from being primarily a faux painter to doing much more Venetian plaster I noticed something. Plaster professionals are really fussy about the cleanliness of their tools and their buckets. Want to know why? Because a couple of little pieces of dried up plaster – AKA “hitchhikers”- on your hawk or in your bucket will ruin your morning when applying Marmorino or other smooth polished plasters. And they can also ruin a bucket of expensive lime based material. So be clean and neat and you will reap the benefits. Customers will absolutely love that about their decorative plastering contractors too.

Lars of Handcrafted Finishes made a series of videos showing his process applying Tadelakt in a modern home in Denver.

Take a look:

More of of his Tadelakt videos here and here.

Work was done on about 50 columns total on this impressive home which also features a naturally green, lime based Intonachino application on the exterior.

Don’t forget the following:

First, make sure after taping and before applying your Venetian plaster that you burnish your tape edges with a plastic putty knife or some other plastic tool. We actually like to cut up old credit cards and keep them in our tool kits.

After taping and burnishing if you are still concerned about your material bleeding through, use a water-based clear sealer and run it lightly over the edge of the tape using the beveled edge of a foam brush. This should seal that edge and stop any material from ruining that nice clean edge on your decorative painting project.

If you are having difficulty removing your tape, try using a hair dryer to lightly heat up the glue and make removal easier.

When applying Venetian plaster or other stucco or Italian plaster products, bleed should not be an issue. However, you may find when trying to remove your tape after applying Marmorino Carrara or similar Venetian plaster finishes that it can’t be removed cleanly due to the thickness of the plaster material. Try running the edge of your plastic putty knife into the seam where the tape edge is. This should help break the bond between the plaster material and the tape so that removal will be easier.

REMEMBER! 3-M blue tape and other similar painter’s tapes are not low-tack tapes. They are a long mask, medium tack tape. Use a lower tack tape to protect delicate surfaces.

Not Fade Away: While synthetic Venetian plasters made by paint companies may look somewhat similar to the real thing at first, it’s been our experience that these synthetics will ultimately fade and become “tired” looking over time. Just like painted walls will fade and not look fresh after a couple of years or so. Synthetic Venetians are more closely related to paint generally than to stone like real Venetian Plaster, so this should come as no surprise.

Linoleum versus stone: We liken it to the difference between putting linoleum on your floor versus stone. Remember, real lime slake and marble based Venetian plasters are actually composed of stone in the form of crushed limestone and marble. It’s like applying liquid stone we like to tell our customers (excellent selling point and one of the many tips for selling we give you in our evening business seminar in the Architectural Wall Finishing week), and it’s no surprise these real Venetian plaster materials retain their luster and vibrancy for decades.