Aaron and Stucco Italiano Venetian plaster featured on Fauxology blog

Aaron and Stucco Italiano Venetian plaster featured on Fauxology blog

The lovely and talented Regina Garay of Garay Artisans posted a nice feature on Stucco Italiano including an interview with Aaron. He discusses what first sparked his interest in Venetian plaster as well as some of the more popular lime-based products.

Regina is quite prolific and her blog, Fauxology, is always a great read.  One of the most articulate and balanced resources we know of.  Definitely subscribe if you’re in the biz. Check her out on twitter too.

Thanks Regina for all you hard work!

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Exterior Distressed Lime Plaster

Exterior Distressed Lime Plaster

Exterior Distressed Finishing:

This can be particularly challenging as we are generally trained in life to create uniform patterns and you have to break this habit to mimic the chaotic patterns we see in nature. I’ve seen some really awful work out there and it is generally a result of poor composition. It’s easy enough to make a 2×2 sample board look natural, but how can we do this on a much larger scale?

Here’s some tips on how to achieve randomness in your distressed finishing:

1- Study actual photos of crumbling plaster exteriors and interiors. Note the size and scale of the different layers, note the shapes and direction. I generally work with about an 80% vertical and 20% horizontal direction, very little or no diagonal direction.

2- The pattern on a sample board must be expanded to the size and scale of the walls. A sample board may be viewed as a miniature version of the wall to be blown up accordingly.

3- Move your body in a large scale. That is, be expansive, move your arms accordingly – don’t work with small, tight motions from the wrist or elbow. Instead work from the shoulder. Stay loose.

4- Create pattern over multiple layers, not just on your final layer. This will force a greater degree of randomness in your overall pattern. Here’s an example:

On this exterior project the client really wanted to see dark brown openings through a Terra Cotta finish. This created a finish with a high degree of contrast so we had to be particularly careful about not allowing the house to have a contrived pattern when completed. We needed to do the finish in two coats since it was a large exterior surface – approximately 20,000 square feet. Rather than cover the entire first coat with the dark brown we chose to cover only about 15-20%.

This “under-pattern” was designed to help the stucco installers find a more realistic shape and scale on their second pass of material. Also, note how the dark brown generally originates from the top of the wall or the sides. This is often what you will see on an actual stuccoed surface where the first coats of plaster are falling away from the surface. Kind of looked like a giant cow for a while and the country club’s community board got a little nervous, but fortunately our clients had faith in me.

This photos shows the work in progress on the 2nd layer: The dark brown is revealed in small, linear shapes beneath the 2nd terra cotta stucco layer. By following the pattern initiated in the first layer, we had a much easier time avoiding the contrived, obvious, unrealistic pattern I was concerned about.

And here is a detail of the finished exterior surface.

Final tip: PRACTICE!! On a 4×8 sheet of drywall, or your mom’s house. You’ll get the hang of it. Just don’t try to figure it out on a multi million dollar job site if you can help it. Unless you have nerves of steel. We don’t.

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Mold resistance: why lime for exteriors and interiors?

Mold resistance: why lime for exteriors and interiors?

Intonachino has proven to be one of our most popular finishes for exteriors. Its naturally mold-resistant nature makes it perfect for the outdoors, even up here in the rainy northwest.

A while ago, I briefly mentioned a project Tom Williams is working on in Ballard using Intonachino Extra Fine and Medium. It’s worth taking another look. Click on the picture below to see more photos.

Of course, mold-resistance is great for optimal indoor air health as well, so intonachino and other lime plasters are also ideal for interiors. Quoting from this excellent article on lime plaster’s natural mold resistance; “the short answer as to why Venetian plaster is truly mold-resistant is that mold can only grow in an acidic and wet or damp environment. Venetian plasters breathe and do not retain moisture. Molds also require a food source and an acidic environment in which to multiply.”

For both health- and earth-conscious reasons, Venetian style Italian lime plasters are the way to go……

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Venetian Plastering Taping Tips

Having trouble with tape bleed on your Venetian plastering projects?

Don’t forget the following:

First, make sure after taping and before applying your Venetian plaster that you burnish your tape edges with a plastic putty knife or some other plastic tool. We actually like to cut up old credit cards and keep them in our tool kits.

After taping and burnishing if you are still concerned about your material bleeding through, use a water-based clear sealer and run it lightly over the edge of the tape using the beveled edge of a foam brush. This should seal that edge and stop any material from ruining that nice clean edge on your decorative painting project.

If you are having difficulty removing your tape, try using a hair dryer to lightly heat up the glue and make removal easier.

When applying Venetian plaster or other stucco or Italian plaster products, bleed should not be an issue. However, you may find when trying to remove your tape after applying Marmorino Carrara or similar Venetian plaster finishes that it can’t be removed cleanly due to the thickness of the plaster material. Try running the edge of your plastic putty knife into the seam where the tape edge is. This should help break the bond between the plaster material and the tape so that removal will be easier.

REMEMBER! 3-M blue tape and other similar painter’s tapes are not low-tack tapes. They are a long mask, medium tack tape. Use a lower tack tape to protect delicate surfaces.…

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Synthetic vs. Real Lime-Based Venetian Plaster

Synthetic vs. Real Lime-Based Venetian Plaster

Choose wisely: You can walk into Home Depot and purchase something called “Venetian Plaster” This material can be applied with a spatula and polished to a relatively high sheen. So what’s the big deal about Lime-based plaster anyway? Isn’t it about the same thing? Who cares if it is real or synthetic?

Not Fade Away: While synthetic Venetian plasters made by various paint manufacturers may look somewhat similar to the real thing at first, it’s been our experience that these synthetics will ultimately fade and become “tired” looking over time.  This is similar to the way painted walls will fade and lose their fresh look after a few years.  Synthetic Venetians are paint, not stone – they are “organic” in the sense they have not finished their life-cycle and will continue to change after application.   Authentic mineral plasters are made from stone – lime and marble – they are non-organic and will not change over time.

Linoleum versus stone: We liken it to the difference between putting linoleum on your floor versus stone.  Remember, real slaked lime and marble based Venetian plasters are actually composed of stone in the form of crushed limestone and marble. It’s “like applying liquid stone to your walls” we like to tell our customers (excellent selling point), and it makes sense these real Venetian plaster materials retain their luster and vibrancy for decades and longer.

Short term versus long term: True you may save some money in the short term using quote-unquote Venetian plaster.  But considering the labor and the time involved, I think the synthetics are generally going to be used by the uneducated applicator/consumer.  I say this because it is very rarely that we see anyone turned on to natural plasters go back to the synthetics.…

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